We Are Born By The River: Collaborative Notes of Millennium River Basin Culture International Forum

Born by the River: A New Perspective on the History of Tainan

The Taiwan session approaches the history of Tainan from the perspectives of geological archaeology and environmental ethics, considering it across a broad timespan. It emphasizes land and water as central elements, reexamining the history and culture that emerged from human interaction with the environment. Additionally, researchers in gastronomy explore how soil physics, chemistry, and biological activities beneath the surface influence crop root development, which in turn affects plant growth and harvests. By studying the terrain and uncovering the secrets of the land, they use culinary exploration to delve into the layered of flavor that result. Lastly, the project shifts focus to surface conditions and human behavior, examining the relationship between built and natural environments in historical cities. Discussions will cover contemporary historical research and its multifaceted values, as well as how to reintegrate historical hydrology into urban public space under a comprehensive approach to historic urban preservation.

Panel Moderator: HSIEH Shih-yuan (Director of the Department of Cultural Affairs, Tainan City Government, Associate Professor of History at National Cheng Kung University)

The Long-Term Human-Environmental Interactions in Tainan and the Zengwen River

Tainan City is divided into two main geographic areas: hills and plains. The hilly region formed earlier, while the plains emerged much later. The formation of the plains is closely linked to coastal fluctuations and the large-scale alluvial processes of the Zengwen River, which has shaped the primary living environment for today’s residents of Tainan City.

The formation of these lands, along with the interactions between humans and their environment, is a layered and recurring process. It can be thoughtfully examined from a long-term perspective to understand how the land shaped by the Zengwen River and the people inhabiting it have influenced each other over time. For Tainan City, the heart of the Chianan Plain, the Zengwen River, with its untamed nature, can be seen as the mother of the land, upon which different populations have depended for five to six thousand years.

Archaeologists and geologists have repeatedly studied this complex process, deepening our understanding of the intimate relationship between the land and the people of the Chianan Plain. This understanding allows us to offer narratives and explanations based on current knowledge.

LIU Yi-chang (Professor at the Graduate Institute of Archaeology at National Cheng Kung University )

Liu Yi-chang graduated from the Graduate Institute of Anthropology and Archaeology at National Taiwan University (January 1983). He is currently a Distinguished Professor at the Graduate Institute of Archaeology at National Cheng Kung University, where he also serves as the Director of the Center for Archaeology and Cultural Heritage. Additionally, he is an Adjunct Research Fellow at the Institute of History and Philology, Academia Sinica. Professor Liu has been engaged in long-term research at Academia Sinica, specializing in archaeology. His research encompasses Taiwan and the broader Southeast Asian maritime region, with a focus on various domains including Taiwanese archaeology, indigenous and Old Society archaeology, historical archaeology, Southeast Asian archaeology, Taiwanese prehistory, cultural heritage studies, and the historiography of Taiwanese archaeology. Professor Liu is dedicated to articulating a comprehensive narrative of Taiwan’s human development, deeply rooted in the island’s geography. His approach integrates archaeological findings, ethnological studies, early historical records, and the oral traditions of indigenous peoples, aiming to bridge the Austronesian-dominated prehistory with the Chinese cultural history that emerged from the 17th century onward. Through this interdisciplinary methodology, he seeks to construct a cohesive and inclusive history of Taiwan.

Tainan: Soil, Life, and Community

The Essence of Tainan’s Waters—A Taste of Tainan

The Land and Its Diversity: Tainan’s Landscape and Soil

Tainan’s landscape ranges from coastal areas, plains, and hills, with terrain sloping from the northeast to the southwest. Aside from unique features like alluvial fans, river terraces, and depressions, the contour lines generally run north to south. Tainan’s landscape includes five major rivers and a variety of water bodies, featuring six reservoirs and the largest number of ponds in Taiwan, which contribute to diverse hydrological formations. These include lowlands, ridges, coastal sandbars, small alluvial fans, valleys, basin-like depressions, residual hills, and terraces, each with distinct soil types.

Tainan’s geology belongs to the western foothills zone, with most of the flatland soils consisting of alluvial parent materials. These materials originate from eroded sediments from the eastern hills and mountains, primarily composed of sandstone, shale, and mudstone, with some limestone content. The majority of the landforms are riverine in origin, while some coastal areas are shaped by marine processes, or a combination of river and marine deposition. A smaller portion is formed by wind deposition.

Tainan experiences high temperatures, with rainfall concentrated between May and September, leading to soil saturation and intense leaching. From October to February, rainfall is sparse, causing the soil to dry out. Coastal areas, influenced by monsoons, are prone to the formation of salt-affected soils. The land is predominantly used for agriculture, with smaller portions dedicated to salt fields or fish ponds. The use of agricultural land is determined by irrigation and soil properties. After the completion of the Chianan Irrigation System and Zengwen Reservoir, the reliance on rain-fed farming in the plains decreased, and the management of irrigation water significantly boosted agricultural productivity. In the hills and shallow slopes, the primary focus is on livestock and fruit tree cultivation, while coastal areas prioritize aquaculture, supplemented by winter dry farming.

The Flavor of the Land: Tainan’s Culinary Heritage

The terroir of Tainan is deeply reflected in its culinary culture, often characterized by a distinct “sweet” flavor. However, by exploring the land and uncovering its secrets, the layers of flavors behind Tainan’s cuisine can be better appreciated, leading more people to value these culinary traditions. This talk will examine the evolving flavors of Tainan through three table case studies.

Starting from the coast, moving through the inner sea, plains, and into the foothills, the themes of “Saline Land,” “Daofeng Inland Sea,” and “Badlands of Foothills,” will guide the exploration. As we trace the steps through these landscapes and uncover the soil beneath, the unique flavors of Tainan begin to reveal their intricate connections.

The coastal and fish pond areas, with their high-salinity soils, are suitable for salt-tolerant crops like scallions and garlic, which contribute to Tainan’s distinctive spicy flavors, enhanced by the salty breezes from upstream limestone. On the vast Chianan Plain, the careful management of irrigation has led to Taiwan’s highest yields of rice and grains, providing the rice and grain-based aromas that permeate Tainan’s cuisine. As we enter the low hills, where the balance between humans and nature is more pronounced, we gain a deeper understanding of the origins of traditional foods and the emergence of fresh fruit flavors.

YEH Hsin-chen(founder of Care Food Vendor)

YEH Hsin-chen is a promotion speaker for the three major initiatives of the Taiwan MOA Foundation. Since 2021, she has spearheaded the “Soil Profile Diagnosis Project,” which involves digging soil profiles to help farmers connect with and sense the soil through their own observations. By studying the soil’s physical, chemical, and biological activities beneath the surface, farmers can better understand how these factors affect crop root development, growth, and yields.

Trained in soil science at National Chung Hsing University, YEH has also collaborated with the Taiwan Homemakers Union Consumers’ Co-operative and Kaohsiung’s Breeze Market, working with farmers to support eco-friendly agriculture through consumer power. Additionally, she was the owner of a green restaurant, where she sourced ingredients directly from farms, understood the production processes, and partnered with like-minded farmers to offer seasonal, locally-sourced dishes. She also used her restaurant experience to mentor slow food businesses in Taitung, enhancing their food safety practices and the use of local ingredients.

In recent years, YEH has collaborated with Chef LIN Chi-feng on the concept of “food design,” where they deconstruct and distill elements such as the terroir, local produce, and memories associated with food. These elements are then reassembled to create narratives of terroir that resonate with contemporary consumer consciousness while staying rooted in cultural contexts. Their recent food design projects have included “Saline Land,” “Daofeng Inland Sea,” and “Badlands of Foothills,” which are based on geographic terroir. These projects have brought forth complex landscapes through shared dining experiences (“共食”) and the creative process of food design (“構食”) that precedes the meal.

An Initiation of Urban Conservation derived from the Historical Study of Fu An Keng Creek

1. The Relationship Between the Built Environment and Natural Environment in Historic Cities:
   The development of Tainan, formerly known as Taiwan-fu, has been closely tied to its geography and hydrology, including its hills and waterways such as Deqing Creek, Fang Creek, Fu-An-Keng Creek, Wenyuan Creek, Chaitougang Creek, Zhuxi Creek, and Wutiaogang Creek.
2. Colonial Modernity and the Artificialization of the Natural Environment:
   During the modernization of Tainan, natural creeks gradually became integral parts of the city’s basic water infrastructure, transforming into elements like stormwater drainage systems, underground box culverts, and interception stations.
3. Contemporary Historical Research and Multidimensional Value Discussions:
   The suburban Zhuxi Creek and the urban Fu An Keng Creek offer different perspectives: the former’s transformation into a riverside park contrasts with the latter’s role in urban conservation. The research on Fu An Keng Creek involved various methods, including textual and cartographic analysis, interviews, land and building surveys, and landscape resource assessments. This study highlights the historical, ecological, recreational, and tourism values of the area.
4. Advocacy for Uncovering, Vision, and Challenges:
   The advocacy for uncovering and restoring these creeks involves supportive strategies and aims to reintegrate historical hydrology into the urban public space system as part of a broader approach to historic urban preservation.

YEH Hsin-chen (chief executive officer, Foundation of Historic City Conservation and Regeneration)

YEN Shih-hua is currently the Executive Director of the Foundation of Historic City Conservation and Regeneration, Taiwan. He also serves as an Adjunct Assistant Professor-level Expert in the Department of Architecture at National Cheng Kung University and National University of Kaohsiung, and as an Adjunct Lecturer in the Department of Interior Design at Tainan University of Technology.

YEN’s expertise and research focus on spatial design and design thinking, with particular attention to urban and settlement conservation and regeneration. YEN also study historical spaces and architecture, and work on planning and design for the reuse of existing structures. Additionally, YEN engages in participatory planning and community building initiatives.